Venezia, 10/18-10/21

See Venice and die...indeed. "La Serenissima" is exotic, mysterious, and breathtaking. Being late October, the weather was damp and cold, only augmenting the ethereal mystique. Everywhere saw those eerie "Dottore" Carnivale masks, ala "Eyes Wide Shut," that doctors wore doing the plague to elude germs. We walked endlessly, deliberately losing ourselves in the maze of labryinths.

Ate fantastic seafood, including copious amounts of octopus, calamari, and anchovies (not for the squeamish). We had one unforgettable meal, albeit intimidating, at a local bistro Trattoria Carampagne (sp?) where there was no menu, they just tell you what is fresh that evening and how they can cook it. Split a antipasti frutti di mare (seafood -- literally "fruits of the sea) and both had the bronzino fish as a main course. Unfortunately I invoked the ire of the waitress by having the audacity to request "il conto" (the bill) after a mere 3 hours. Italian restuaraunt rules. But that did not deter from a glorious culinary experience. You haven't lived until you've had squid cooked in its own ink.

Sandro and Volter took good care of us at the Hotel Al Ponte Moncenigo, in Santa Croce away from the tourist traps of San Marco and the Rialto. Terrific breakfasts with bottomless cappucinos (which we consumed heartily as our maladjusted time clocks had us rising at 3 am every morning), chocolate brioche, and blood orange juice, my new favorite.