Orvieto is so underrated! Rick Steves, Guru of Budget Travel, only devotes a page to it, so we figured it was only worth a day trip. This was a decision we immediately regreted as we emerged from the train station and into the funicular transporting us to the top of the town. While small, Orvieto packs a punch, with something for everyone: ceramics, Etruscan caves, and Classico wine. It's a gorgeous little town with incredible views of the Umbrian countryside. This shot below of an Umbrian monastary was one of the many landscapes viewed from the town. This is where I want to live. Right here:
We had lunch at this place called Enoteca Tozzi. It's a one-man operation, a myriad of meats, cheeses, wines, and a carving board. We walked in as he was in the midst of creating a picnic box of delectable delights for another couple. When it was my turn I just said "Anche' come qui per noi," which sort of translates to "Also, one like that for us." He prepared our lunch in a very old-world manner: slowly, carefully, and lovingly. Nothing automated. Our feast consisted of prociutto parma, crudo, mozzarella, romano, porchetta (suckling pig), and bread.
After lunch, we waddled over to the Parco delle Grotte for our underground tour of the Etruscan and medieval caves that honeycomb the city. Our guide was adorably Italian and very knowledgable. She told us that most everyone in Orvieto has a cave, but will not admit to it since doing so would incur taxation. How Italian!
Their duomo also rivals those of Siena and Florence. Orvieto was catapulted into medieval importance, hence justifying the comisssion of their duomo, by the miracle of Bolsena. Lake Bolsena is a nearby town, whose claim to fame is a 13th century priest who doubted the transubstantiation of the host. His skepticism was quickly negated, however, during one mass as the wafer began to drip blood onto a cloth. This cloth was quickly transported to Orvieto, and a cathedral built around it. The cathedral is pretty spectacular, featuring black and white striped stonework, and a colorful facade divided by four pillars.
We wandered around, then caught the funicular back as the sun was setting on the pastoral land and on our trip. The ticket machines were down at the train station, and I didn't want to bother speaking broken Italian hence I jumble things up, so I asked the ticket agent if he spoke English. "Yeah, toootally" in a valley girl accent was his reply. A sense of humor often devoid in some of the big cities!
Our train ride back was less than charmed as it was rife with delays. We finally made it back to Assisi, only to miss the bus, so we splurged on a cab to drive us back to town. Dined at Osteria Pozzo della Mensa, which graciously took us at 9:45 despite closing in 45 minutes and being packed. You can tell who reads Rick Steves here. Ordered a some small plates to share, such as Umbrian sausages, mixed green vegetables, and pate on crostini. Poor congested Jeremy was deprived of his taste buds, but he still seemed to enjoy his meal.
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