Firenze, 10/21-10/24

Florence is a "must" on very Italian itinerary as it occupies an important role in modern thought and the Renaissance numerous achievements in art, architecture, politics, and science: the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio, Uffizi, Academia, Pitti Palace, Boboli Gardens. These contributions are largely due to the patronage of the Medici family, whose role in the evolution of modern thought is undeniable. Sightseeing highlights were the picturesque, cool-drink-of-water Boboli Gardens; climbing Giotto's Tower adjacent to the Duomo, where we were rewarded with sweeping views of the city, and the Uffizi.

Florence used to hold the title of my favorite Italian city, and I had eagerly anticipated showing Florence to Jeremy. Perhaps I'd built up too much hype, but we were slightly disappointed. Maybe our hotel being a fleabag had something to do with it. Anything in a big city that is $70 Euros should definitely raise a red flag. Bugs, Kate Moss-thin walls, and a shower in the middle of the bathroom (the room showers with you). Sanka and twinkees for breakfast with the Breakfast Nazi who yells at you if you dare demand more seconds on their nasty orange-flavored water that they tried to pass off as OJ. The city also had more tourists and cars than I remember. For some reason, my memory had selectively categorized Florence as a car-free oasis. This is not the case. There is only a small pedestrian zone, filled to the brim with tourists, and difficult to navigate. You don't get a sense of the real residents.

Nevertheless, this did not spoil our time. We whiled away many an hour people-watching at the Piazza Reppublicca. People in Florence, as well as in the rest of Italy, are gorgeous, abetted by their scrupulous attention to appearance. I felt like such an American slob.

Florence also has great food and shopping (an activity also explored in Siena and Rome). Being predominantly inland, Tuscan cuisine draws off the land (mushrooms, truffles), and can be quite gamey, but the real gems are its excellent wines and gelati. If you like Nutella, imagine giant gobs of it in creamy rich ice cream! I think I felt my heart stop. We ate really well the first two nights, especially at the wine bar Coquinarios (http://www.florence.ala.it/coquinar/). Had some terrific Tuscan "pate" on crostini as appetizers, and amazing salads. Most restaurants were closed on our last night, Sunday, and dinner that evening was pannini (sandwiches), a sad closure to our Florentine epicurean adventures.

Our error, in addition to choosing a cheap hotel, was in spending too much time in the tourist center and not enough exploring the neighborhoods, such as the Oltarno, which lies on the opposite bank of the Arno. A day trip to Tuscany's more bucolic areas such as San Gimignano or Montepulciano would have been a refreshing escape from the hoardes. Since we'd had Venice practically to ourselves (apparently the Film Festival marks the official end of the season), we expected all Italian cities to follow suit. This was not to be, and nowhere was that truer than Florence. However, I encourage everyone to put Florence on their Italian itinerary -- do not exceed two days in the city center, then get out of town!